I explored building out realistic fabric procedurally by using Substance Designer to build out the threads and weaves of the fabrics. I chose fabrics that each had a specific characteristic to their weaves to challenge myself.
Linen and Gingham both have even weaves but Linen has a lot more imperfections. Houndstooth has an offset 2x2 weave which creates the distinct pattern.
I used Maya nCloth to build out fabric shader balls for the final render in UE4